What an
exciting day
First off we
woke up at 3:30 am due to the howling wind and never really slept well after
that.
The ship
made at least two approaches to the port and had to turn back due to wind and
high seas. We were all on tenderhooks and finally the Captain got us to the berth,
albeit 2 hrs late. We didn’t care. We were just glad he tried as usually they
give it one go and then go on to the next port.
There might
have been a good reason to keep at it: we have to refuel here for the 6 days
across the Atlantic after Portomao Portugal tomorrow. And Portomao does not
have the capacity to refuel us.
The staff is
amazing. They had already announced activities for the day assuming we could
not get into the port.
We were all
delighted that we were able to do our tours even if they started late. The captain
was also able to get a longer time at the pier so we could have the full tours
we looked forward to.
Our tour
Was to
Chefchawah (sounds like chef showah) a mountain town 2 hrs into Morocco from
Cueta, Spanish Morocco where we were tied up.
We had the
fun of crossing the border: Spanish first and then the one into Morocco. We surrendered
our passports with immigration forms for coming and going and we were off with
our Jebala clad guide: Muhammad (of course). He spoke excellent English and had
a strong voice.
Morocco
Wasn’t was I
expected. It is very mountainous, lush and green in most places. We kept
climbing higher and higher. We saw donkeys, horses, lots of goats, sheep,
ducks, chickens and lots of shepherds. You see more Islamic dress here than in
the more recent places we’ve been. There are several quarries visible from the
bus, probably for granite, limestone blocks and probably others as well.
Phosphorous is their major mineral export; tourism is the 5th
contributor to their economy.
We passed
through Teotoun, one of the other tours, and this city is the so called “white
city” for the white wash on the buildings and homes.
While there
is some trash here and there, almost exclusively plastic bags, for the most
part this is a very clean countryside. After another hour we reached our
destination.
Chefchawah,
the blue city.
Obviously
the spelling isn’t accurate but the pronunciation is pretty close. This is a
lovely old city with mostly blue wash on the old houses. It makes for a
wonderful lovely change. It is an ocean blue.
We trudged
up and down hills on old weathered cobblestone streets (more like alleyways
they were so narrow), so worn down over the years that they were slick and
would have really been a threat with rain. The whole town is like a giant maze
of a souk. You can get most everything here.
Lunch
Authentic Moroccan
food with local musicians in a 3 story building; we wound up on the second
floor crowded into nooks much like you see in the movie Casablanca. We had a
sort of pita bread, though more hearty, with olive oil and a kind of vinegar.
We had water to drink. Next came a kind of bean soup with perhaps small angle
hair noodles in it. Soon a salad came made with fresh tomatoes and enough on
the plate for each person at our table to have about 2 tablespoons of this
really tasty salad. Next came a big communal dish with meet, carrots, potatoes
and other unknowns. It was quite tasty. Finally a cookie kind of dessert that I
couldn’t describe. Then we were off to explore more nooks and crannies of this
very picturesque hillside community. There is a creek and small waterfall and
if you look up between the tall walls as you snake through the cobblestones,
you can see high craggy mountains.
There were
lots of cats around but not so many dogs and they looked pretty mangy.
You don’t
dare get separated from your guide or you’ll never find your way out. We saw
many folks in colorful clothing including the jebala (I probably spelling and
pronouncing it incorrectly. It is worn by both men and women, covers the whole
body with a slit in the side seam for accessing your pockets, and a monk like
hood. We passed many cute older people. A smile goes a long way in connecting
with people. Some small children were selling something that looked like pizza
crust with paprika dust on it.
Odd hats
As we drove
up ato this city, we saw many people in
the fields wearing these strange little straw hats that are peaked and have
colorful yarn balls on them. That’s all I know about them but there were being
sold in the souk and at least one woman on our bus bought one. What she’ll do
with it is anyone’s guess.
This was
such a wonderful excursion and I learned so much more. I did buy two jebalas:
one iridescent blue and one purple (red hats in mind). The blue is gorgeous but
a little too snug for me as they are meant to be very loose so Lisa has that
souvenir. The purple one is definitely big enough. I wasn’t planning on buying
anything as it takes too much time, I hate haggling, I’m not good at estimating
sizes, I hate haggling (a must here), BUT this cute little man with perfect
English gave me bothfor $15 USD. I was stunned. The prettier one was $5 and the
purple (not so pretty) was $10. My great find of the trip. I still feel guilty.
He was concerned about the currency as he has not seen the new USD with the
colors and strips. Eventually he did accept them.
We arrived
back at the ship with 30 min to spare. There was some discussion about the time
as the time was different in Morocco. So I used my limited Spanish to accost a
Spanish policeman at the ship and ask him the time. It was indeed 7 pm as I had
said.
Quiet supper
Quick bite
at the buffet and sitting in the sun on the back of the ship.
Pick up
photos from last night, download today’s photos to iPad, and PC and then load
all of these onto an SD chip for Lisa to take back with her tomorrow.
Tomorrow is
another busy day. We have a half day tour and then we put Lisa in a taxi to go
one hour to Faro for her flight back to Norway. It has been great fun having her
with us these few days and I hope escorting the parents has been as much fun
for her.