It is hazy
and in the 80s outside. You can see the
wake of ships who passed long ago. I saw a white object floating on the surface
that looked like a ping pong ball but about the size of a tennis ball. I
wonder?
We went
through the Strait of Hormuz in the night and another passenger said there
search lights off of the ship all night long.
While we
haven’t seen them, there is a large US military presence in this area. I am
amazed that people do not remember that.
Interdenominational
service
I think it’s
interesting that it’s called that and not nondenominational as is more common.
Nice service with some songs I knew. My lung volume is not adequate to carry a
phrase at this point and my vocal cords are rough with results of asthma and
such. What a disappointment
Photo raffle
A guy came
up, very confidently put tickets in the box and announced to the rest of us
that we just as well leave because he was going to win. And he did: the first
prize. A lady who is leaving the ship in Dubai won the second prize which was
10 of the postcards with great shots from the trip.
Trivia
I ran up and
was able to help with at least one question. We did better than the adjacent
team by two but the winning team had two more points than we did.
The dancer
who called it is hilarious with her British and then (long a) American
pronunciations of words. So cute.
Lunch
We ordered
room service as we were coming into port. Cheeseburger for me; chef salad for
Ed.
I can’t say
the sail in was dramatic. It was hazy and everything looks the color of sand.
The terminal is new and in the local style.
There are 3
large ships on the pier (the two others, one Royal Caribbean, are both much
larger than ours)
Immigration
We tapped
our fingers until it was our turn. Passport in hand, cruise card at the ready,
we checked out of the ship and straight into the terminal where three desks
manned by two traditionally clad (how do they keep those things so white?) men.
I don’t recall him even looking up at me (I know they wouldn’t look a woman in
the eye in the old days…and visa versa). Opens passport, stamps it and I’m off.
Except
there’s the ship staff to retrieve my passport.
I feel
naked. No passport, no photocopy stamped. Only my cruise card.
So we go
back onto the ship: this entails going through metal detector at exit from
terminal to ship and then again as we enter the ship. Our gear in hand, we
eventually go down to the meeting place for our afternoon tour. The place is
packed. I think there were probably 200 shipmates going on this same tour.
ow do they
keep those things so white?) men. I don’t recall him even looking up at me (I
know they wouldn’t look a woman in the eye in the old days…and visa versa).
Opens passport, stamps it and I’m off.
Except
there’s the ship staff to retrieve my passport.
I feel
naked. No passport, no photocopy stamped. Only my cruise card.
So we go
back onto the ship: this entails going through metal detector at exit from
terminal to ship and then again as we enter the ship. Our gear in hand, we
eventually go down to the meeting place for our afternoon tour. The place is
packed. I think there were probably 200 shipmates going on this same tour.
Desert
Safari 4 wheel drive
We are
herded to our vehicle and meet Bashir Ahmed who is our driver for today. It’s
about 4 pm by this time and sunset is after 6. This is important to the
experience of the day. There are 6 passengers in this Toyota SUV but that
doesn’t describe it well. Very comfortable with AC. Each time we get back into
the car we are asked to be sure our seat belt is tightened. This isn’t just a
law here. It becomes important later as well.
Bashir was
born and raised here in the UAE but he is Pakistani. He is considered an expat
even though born here. He will never have citizenship. This is pretty common in
these countries where over half of their population are expats who come to
work. He has 4 children and has to pay for their education since he is not a
citizen.
Getting out
of the port
The gate of
the port is probably 2 miles from the ship along this reclaimed land. We are
asked to hold our cruise card up as we come to the exit. A local port police
visually sights all of our cards along with the special permit the driver has,
and we are off.
Exiting the
city
Dubai is a
modern city in almost every respect. The height of the buildings is astonishing
and of course the most famous is the Burg Khalifi. You don’t see old vehicles
here. Gas is about 50 cents a liter: $2 USD per gallon roughly and it is
subsidized.
We wiggle
through the traffic and are soon on a superhighway. The highways have buffers
of low native shrubs to keep the sand from overtaking the roadway. It is, as
you would expect, in excellent condition and a very good ride. No one violates
the traffic laws here as they have cameras everywhere and they don’t tolerate
violations.
Soon we are
diverted to a camel racing track with a camel hospital for them on sight. In
the distance we see tents where their caretakers stay with them. They are
crossing the road with camel drivers on some here and there, the rest strung
along behind with ropes.
Camel racing
A popular
sport here held a few days a week. But here’s the funny part: they don’t have
riders! They carry robots whose weight mimics a rider and who is controlled by
the owner wirelessly. They have a little stick to tap the camel along. We
didn’t see it but it sounds like a riot.
We continue
along and eventually all of the vehicles from our ship, we estimated about 30,
stop and the drivers begin to let air out of the tires. Ordinarily these Dunlap
tires hold 35 psi and the pressure is reduced to about 16 psi.
Beginning
the real adventure
We enter a
desert conservancy site of about 10 miles square. Our trek to the campsite
seemed to take us over a hundred.
WHEE!
And we begin
our E ticket ride over the dunes. And they don’t just crawl over them: you find
yourself hanging onto the hand holds to keep your balance. They warn about
folks with neck and back issues (Ed did stabilize his neck and he had brought
his cushion).
Disneyland
has no ride to match this one. You see other cars ahead pop up and then
disappear just as quickly on the top of the dune. We would testify that the
side angles were at least 45 degrees and going over and down a dune, it had to
be much more. And we aren’t crawling: we’re doing it gonzo style. I was
astonished at how good the drivers were (none turned over but the roll bars
were as big as my wrist) and how amazing the vehicles were!
And it
wasn’t over in 120 seconds either. At the top of each dune, we raced on. There
were stops now and then to see the sunset for example and just to stretch and
get ready for the next lap as there was no turning back. (big laugh here).
One lady
tried to slide down the dune but this isn’t snow! I gained a very great
admiration for the camels who traverse this sand. It is more like powdered
confectioner’s sugar feel, dirt, not sand as you think of on the beach. I dug
my toes in going up and my heels going down.
Local
wildlife
This is a
conservancy and so some of the wildlife is visual occasionally including a
delicate antelope: I didn’t catch it’s name.
We saw
braced trees here and there being fed with drip lines. This is part of their
plan to create this place to the design. But clearly there is water some distance
down as there were large trees here and there which indicates the availability
of water if you dig (though I never got the distance). There is a shortage of
water overall and Dubai is the Queen of desalination.
Wind
The wind was
wonderful but he had sand everywhere. My mouth still has grit never mind the
other orifices. The temperatures were in the high 80s but this temperature with
those winds, made it absolutely wonderful.
Sandshapes:
you walk in the sand and your impression is there but almost before your eyes,
the sharp edges smooth and soon the dune is nothing more than waves that look
like horizontal rivulets on the surface. I’m sure the sands change shape daily.
At one stop,
the drivers took out small rugs and we saw them saying their prayers under an
adjacent bush behind all of us. No big deal: just doing their duty.
In Asia and
beyond, we are called “Sir” and “Madame”. Our waiter said he’s poor at names
and so this is easier. But it often feels very odd.
After a long
while, we reach a campsite. There are camels we can see and thanks to Ed’s
quick feet, we were early in line before many others figured out the routine.
Camel ride
Ed did it
this time. These beasts are never ending amusement for me. All had little
crocheted nose bags on I suppose to keep them from spitting. Ed mounted in back
with me in front. The locals are all in their pristine white robes and scarves
(no kefair—spelled wrong: all white here).
You are told
to lay back as the camel raises it’s hips first and you’ll fall off if you
don’t. The saddles were terribly uncomfortable and you have a small rigid
circle of hard rope to cling to. The when the camel raises it’s front legs, you
are forward leaning but this one is easier.
And off we
go. I don’t recall my previous camel rides being this hard to stay upright.
Perhaps I had stirrups before but certainly the saddles were much more
accommodating and I was riding alone. People who ride camels a lot certainly
have my admiration. I was glad to get off. The instructions when the camel goes
down again are also explicit and were it not for that nice Arab man who didn’t
mind catching my shoulder as we went down, I would have wound up face first in
the sand. He took a few very good photos of us on the camel with our camera:
clearly he was knowledgeable about how to use it. At the end, all they expected
was a tip. Delightful.
Henna
Next stop:
getting a henna design on my hand. This small lady (there were several in the
tent) was scrunched up and had a pad to sit on before her (more about the pads
later). She had a small device that looked like an icing bag with a small tip.
She was quick, sure, and created this amazing design. I don’t know what I
expected but when she told me in clear English to keep it straight until it
dried, I was surprised. Ed got a few shots. This experience was included in the
cost of the trip as was the apple tobacco hooka and having your photo taken in
native dress (there was a small charge for this).
Arabian
coffee was also offered. Ed declined.
Alcohol
This
surprised me. Red and White wine were available. You can drink in private
venues here but I’m sure the men serving it were not Muslim.
There were
several large areas to sit and eventually we found some long tables with pads
about the size of a pillow on your bed. The tables were only about 1 ½ ft off
the carpet which was of course on top of the sand.
These pads
were not comfortable at all. I wondered what was in them as they were very
heavy and it didn’t seem to be reeds or animal hair. It is frankly dark by now
and the camp has areas with large carpets over the sand and low lights on
stands here and there.
Toilets
I wasn’t
sure what to expect but nature calls. Wow! Clean, Western toilets, sinks, ran
out of soap, and paper to dry your hands. The area around it is sequestered by
tall reed fences.
Dinner
Ed went for
the appetizers. By this time I can see nothing and need to stay put. Across the
table from us was a young man from Kenya who does business in Dubai and two
young ladies from Malaysia. Along the way, several other caravans have met up
with us and there are probably 500 people in this camp by now. The food smells
wonderful; they called it a BBQ.
I can’t tell
you what I ate but it was good. There was meat, rice, vegetables, delicious dan
like breads. A wonderful experience but it was dark and I have no idea what I
ate. Definitely no pork I’d bet.
Belly dancer
Eventually
they lit up this large area in the middle fully carpeted with these gorgeous
red carpets. The belly dancer emerged from the dark in a red diaphanous skirt
low on her hips and long dark hair with a red bra top and bling decorating
both. (We found out later she is from Brazil). She was very good and had a
figure to die for: slim, flat belly (usually not the norm for belly dancers), elegant
and tall. She did a sword dance that was impressive (yes, the blades are
sharp), and balanced a cane at her waist while she continued to shimmy and
shake.
And then it
was all over. And we had to find our vehicle among the thousands. Ok not
thousands but they all looked alike and we had been depending on the light blue
color of ours (the only one to help us). Forget that: it was pitch dark.
Eventually after bleeting out Bashir’s name repeatedly, another driver took
pity and guided us to our car where we were the last ones.
One other
man had done the camel ride; his wife passed (too bad). I’m the only one with
henna too. Moment
Exiting is
less Rambo on the sand highway with few whee moments. Eventually all the
vehicles line up in about 10 lines for the air pumps to reinflate the tires to
their proper pressure.
And we are
off to the familiar freeways. We pass the sky diving place (not a clue). Bashir
hasn’t done it. Past the “international modern hospital”, past the skyscrapers.
BUT along the way, another car of our caravan is on the side of the road. So we
stop and Bashir helps the other driver change his tire and we are off again.
Some in our car groused mildly as it was almost 10 pm by now, they had to say
goodbye to folks leaving tomorrow and they had a 7:30 am tour to Abu Dhabi. But
we all understood why this was the right thing for Bashir to do.
Back to port
Bashir lit
up the interior of the car and we all hoisted our cruise cards and he his
permit, and the guard waved us on. We were quickly by the terminal and out.
Internet
It had been
down earlier in the day so we had our cell phones and called Lisa. We’ll go
back tomorrow to catch up we hope and then go on tomorrow’s adventure.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thank you!